The New Zealand Vacation



It started off as a nice to go place, and over 3 years actually transformed into reality. A NZ tourism advertisement featuring the Milford Sound, got me thinking about going to NZ, the beauty and majesty of the fjords have always attracted me. While all this was happening, we were also blessed with the birth of our daughter Mandara who is 2 and a half years old now.

We did all of the planning, from itinerary to reservations and everything in between ourselves, by harnessing the enormous power of the internet as well as the lonely planet guide. The tourism NZ website has a nice flash application that lets you build an itinerary, though it is buggy, it did help a lot with our planning. In the end the itinerary lived up to our expectations.

Read on, as we try to put our experiences into words as best as we can.

Day 1 - Kuala Lumpur

Oct 27, 2008










(KL airport)





(The Petronas Towers)










The best use of a 14 hour layover is to take a day trip into the city, I was very keen on seeing the Petronas Towers and especially being on the bridge that connects both the buildings. The tour of the building is closed on Mondays, and as luck would have it we got there on a Monday. KL is humid, and I couldnt stand the heat, so we spent all the time in the mall in the tower. The KL express gets you from airport to city a distance of 70 km in just 28 mins.

Day 2 - Auckland/Rotorua

Oct 28, 2008

(The north Island Itinerary)
We did not spend much time in the cities, 30 minutes after clearing customs at the Auckland International Airport after a 12 hour flight we were dashing down SH1 on a 210 km drive to Rotorua, to
smell the rotten eggs. The drive took us less than 3 hours.

Rotorua is a geothermal hotbed. We have never seen nor been close to any such place before, so it was something we wanted to see. Uneventful drive from Auckland, checked in, freshened up and went into town to get some dinner.

Day 3 - Rotorua (Waiotapu)

Oct 29, 2008
Today we begin by visiting waiotapu. Our hotel was situated right next to the Pohutu Geyser, but we decided to go to waiotapu to see the "Lady Knox" Geyser. We did 3 things today, visited Waiotapu, then Waimangu - Volcanic and Thermal Valley and spent the evening at a hot spa in the Waikite valley.

Waiotapu
Believe it or not, this geyser erupts everyday at 10:15 AM for about an hour(how does it keep track of the time???). We were late and there was a mad dash to try and get here by 10:15 and in the process we took a wrong turn and got lost in some back country roads, though not for very long. We reached the Lady Knox geyser about 20 mins late, but it was still playing. I must say I was disapppointed, I was expecting to see this huge water and sound show, that was going to end the world as we know it. What I saw was a defunct single outlet fountain.



The park has a 3 km walking track, that covers the attractions in the park. For some reason we expected everything to be larger than life, but still it is an interesting place. You can see crude oil bubbling to the surface, large pits caused by the corrosive heat and chemicals from inside the earth's crust and you can feel the heat even though you are at a safe distance. You also get to see a wide variety of colours on display.


The best colour display is at the champagne pool and the artists pallete. These 2 features contain very bright colours in the water due to whatever minerals they contain. The Champagne Pool is bright orange in colour on the sides due to arsenic, magnesium, gold etc. The water in that pool was about 75 Centrigade hot, and covers a volcanic crater from the past. There was a decent breeze and a whole lot of steam at the champagne pool, at times we couldnt see the pool in all the steam. The water I believe is the colour of Champagne and it is bubbling all the time due to the carbon-di-oxide travelling to the top of the hot spring. If you watch closely, you can see all these orange coloured particles drifting to the edge.



There are yellow mounds where sulphur has accumulated over the years. Would be a good place to teach kids Chemistry, they would pick up stuff just like that, because they can see stuff in action. As you walk through this area, you are visually treated to all these different colours and it actually is quite interesting.

At the farthest end from the visitor center of the walk is green coloured Lake Ngakoro, this is the end point of the walk and you got to trace your way back to the entrance. Along the way to Lake Ngakoro, are the Frying Pan Flat, it is called so because, well it is as flat as a frying pan, no undulations, not slopes nothing, these are just flat. You got to see it to make sense of it.

At the end of the walk are 2 features, the Birds Nest Crater and the Devil's bath. The Bird's Nest Crater is so called, because birds have made nests in this crater and the heat from the crater is actually used by the birds to incubate their eggs, using renewable and green energy sources, I guess. I dont have a snap of the Birds Nest Crater, but then it looks like all the other craters that you have seen before. The Devil's bath, has this weird colour. The water in this crater is actually all the water that overflows from the champagne pool, it mixes with the salts in the ground and obtains this colour, and depending on the cloud cover and the amount of light, the colour varies from green to yellow. Looks like this place has all the colours in the spectrum captured here.

Day 3 - Rotorua (Waimangu)

Oct 29, 2008
We found out about Waimangu at the Waiotapu visitor center and since we had the whole afternoon to ourselves we decided to check this out. You can walk from the visitor center into the Waimangu valley, and then return by bus, at the end of the walk is Lake Rotomahana, and you can take a boat cruise on the lake too. We got to the visitor center around 3:30 PM, the last admission for the walk closes at 3:45 PM. since we were so late, we would have to catch the bus back from the valley to the visitor center and this would be the last bus out of the valley for the day, also we had missed the last boat ride. Though we were short of time here, I had my first WOW moment in NZ, read on..

It is about a 4 KM walk from the visitor center to the end of the trail at Lake Rotomahana. The weather was nice. The first photo below explains a lot about this place, we just enjoyed the walk. Also these walks were seemingly part of our preparation for the 4 days on Milford Track too. It looked like the valley was letting off steam through every vent, pore and water body. There was also a stream with warm water (no need for water heaters!!!)




Since we were short on time, we couldnt explore the 2 odd alternative routes that would have be possible otherwise. We reached Lake Rotomahana with just over 15 mins left before the last bus was due out of the valley. We walked onto the boat jetty and into this picture perfect setting. In front of us lay the lake and the other end of the lake were meadows at the foothills of a mountain. There wasnt a soul in sight, it was windy and there were quite a few black swans playing in the lake. I sat there on the jetty for the 10 minutes, taking in the view and generally feeling at peace. There seemed to be the right mix of everything, the setting was truly prefect and I was developing goose bumps. Since we were the last persons on the track, I guess, we had a chance to experience those moments all by ourselves, without having to share it with all the other tourists!!!


We caught the bus back to the visitor center and drove to the Waikite Valley for a dip in the thermal pools.

Day 3 - Waikite Valley

Oct 29, 2008
A short drive from Waimangu is the Waikite valley with its hot pools set in a lush green valley, lots of healthy cows and sheep happily grazing in their patch of farmland. The delicious looking sheep in NZ always reminded you of kebabs and biriyani, and later on lamb shanks. Our pool was on a ledge and you could dip in the pool while you watch the beautiful country side. There was a loud hissing from the hot spring close by from where the water was piped into the pools. The water has a soapy feel to it and you can also see suspended matter in the water, obviously all the minerals. After a dip, had dinner and returned to Rotorua.

Day 4 - Taupo/National Park

Oct 30, 2008
Today we would be driving the 175 km from Rotorua to the National Park via Lake Taupo. Lake Taupo fills out a volcanic crater that has been erupting for the last 27000 years. The largest eruption was about 5000 years and 1 month ago, the eruption was so massive that the ash and smoke from this eruption was seen as far away as China and Rome.

Huka Falls
Our first stop for the day was Huka falls about 10 km before Taupo. The waikato river flows serenly all the while except at this spot it encounters granite rocks, which the river has not been able to dislodge yet, so the river is crowded into a canyon about 15m wide (from about 100m as original width). The height of the water in the canyon is about 5m, and all of this water over 200000 litres per sec gushes through this 15 m wide canyon. You can walk across the canyon over the bridge and come along side the falls.



The lonely planet guide had recommendations for places to eat, and we picked one such place for lunch, remember all the sheep from yesterday. We looked around for about 30 mins, and the map on the guide suggested that we were standing right in front of the restaurant but there wasnt one. We finally ate at a Thai place. One lamb meal opportunity wasted!!!

Craters of the moon
After lunch we drove back on SH1 towards Huka Falls, this time to see the craters of the moon. This one is not as spectacular as the Waiotapu or Waimangu. We used this place as training for Milford Track. The plume of steam from the vent in this photo sounds like an aeroplane jet engine.


The drive to National Park
We had another 100 km to cover before we could get to national park which would be our base to tramp the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. We stopped at a few places around Lake Taupo because the scenery was so beautiful. It was a sunny and beautiful day, most times it seemed like the days when we were on the road, the days were clear, bright and sunny. There was this scenic lookout before you enter Taupo, which was stunnigly beautiful. The photos from my camera do not tell even a small part of that story. It was spectacular!!! This lookout also provided us our first view of Mt Doom from the Lord of the Rings triology, the snow capped mountain in the first photo below. We were going to climb it the next day.

(First look of the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park)

Day 5 - Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Oct 31, 2008
The previous evening we got to the National Park at around 6 PM. The weather forecast said rain in the mornng, clearing later on in the day and winds at 50-60 kmph. It was going to be an interesting first ever serious trek for Rashmi.

Our bus for the trek was to leave at 7AM, We woke up early to pack our lunch and make breakfast. It was quite cold and the mountain was covered in thick clouds.

(The first shot of the volcano in the morning, covered in clouds)


Today's route would take us from the Mangatepopo end to the Ketetahi end a total distance of 19.4km to be completed in 8 hours. At the starting point at 8 am it was quite cold. We were at the point where we had have to stop worrying and start doing.

The initial path is generally flat, the track is clearly visible and is strewn with volcanic rocks. There are no views of the mountains due to the low hanging clouds, the place is filled with yellow brown grass. This cant be hard.


We reached soda springs , first mile stone and still on schedule. Still no views of anything, slight drizzle, lots of fog around.

The Devil's Staircase
From Soda springs to the South Crater it is a steep uphill climb, this section is known as the devil's staircase due to the steepness and difficulty. The rain is falling steadily, but not heavy, continues to be cold and we are breathing is getting heavy. We get the first view of isolated snow. We get to the south crater, still in good shape, on schedule. How do you know you are on schedule, well there are still other trampers with us, so we cant be too far off the mark, right??? There is a sign here which points to a 3 return side trip to the summit of Mt Ngauruhoe. May be some other day, Take a short break, eat and drink a bit and we chug on.


The South Crater

The south crater is covered in snow and when ever the fog clears, you can see the saddle on the far end of the crater. There is a beeline of trampers you can see across the crater. This area is tricky because the earth beneath your feet goes from, firm, to slushy to snow to thin ice.


The Mangatepopo Saddle
It is a steep climb up to the saddle from the crater. From here there is a big contrast between the weather behind and ahead of you, behind you the path you have just covered is still foggy while ahead of you are these clear blue skies. The 2 photos below should give you the idea. At this point the track is exposed to the wind,and the wind is threateningly stiff, the forecast had predicted winds at 50-60 kmph at this point. One of the trampers pack cover was "gone with the wind". The wind makes walking difficult. Twice Rashmi holds onto me to avoid being blown off the mountain. The narrow saddle adds to your woes, at places you cannot place even one foot on the track. Our main focus at this time is getting out of there. The wind chill was phenomenal, within a few moments of exposure to the wind, my hands would go totally numb, I wasn't able to operate my camera to take snaps. This section last for about 30 mins, and once past this difficult section you are at the red crater, the highest point on the track.




The Red Crater to the Emerald Lakes
The Emerald lakes are the half way point on the track, now that we had reached the highest point on the track, it was all going to be easy since it would be down hill. You couldn't be more wrong!!!! From here onwards it was sunny and beautiful weather. The path from the red crater to the emerald lakes is a steep downhill climb, and the ground is loose mud. No grip, no clear path and the track continues to be narrow. This part takes a toll on your knees. You get beautiful views of the emerald lakes. There are 3 of them but we could see only 2 since the other was still covered by ice. We make it down to the lakes and sit down for our lunch.





The Blue lake and back

From the emerald lakes you walk across another plain before you get to the blue lake. The blue lake can be seen from the red crater, how ever due to the ice, you dont get to see the whole lake in all its splendor. By now we are running tight on time and our next goal is the Ketathi hut by 2PM and we are on track to get there on time. Shortly after the blue lake the snow walk ends and you are now descending down the mountain on the other side to get to the end. With the sky clearing you get to see some beautiful views of Lake Rotoairia and Lake Taupo at the horizon. From our first sighting of the Ketatahi hut to the road end we take 5 hours to go down the mountain. Rashmi has a blister. We get to the road end 45 minutes after 4, we are the last people out, but glad to have completed it in one piece